2023 Gutter Parts & Roof Flashing for Local DIY Clients

along with Instruction & Tool List

Updated 1 / 2023

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Why consider a DYI parts over a professional installation?
Of course this is not for everyone. I only offer this because I want to support and encourage the DYI enthusiast, such as myself. These parts kits do not actually make DMR that much $. The main reason for you not to go for our full installation is not as much the money you'd save. It's more the time frame in which you would have to wait for me fit your project into my DMR Gutters schedule, which has been over a year lately. DMR can provide you with the same professional rust-free unassembled parts I use, which you cannot buy at hardware stores or the local suppliers I use, since I have to order them from 5 different States. I can usually get you these supplies within a week or so, which makes all the difference if you simply cannot wait. I have also supplied written instruction of how to install the way I do with a list of recommened tools as well in alink below.

DMR also provides rust-free roof flashing in aluminum or copper, since the only parts you can get from any of the local Roofing Suppliers is painted steel, which will not last as long as the lowest life roof shingles. We got a special purchase of some large sheets of a brown painted aluminum (while limited supplies last). The color is called Weathered Copper (not to be confused with actual copper). Even if you are not doing your own roof you should get this flashing from us. Then compel your Roofer to use it, so their work does not void the wartranty by using the cheap steel flashing they would use. The rake edge T metal, step flashing, and drip edge flashing can be made in any one of the 30 colors gutters come in.Downspout installation

If you are a real Go-getter this could be a great advantage to our time-frame and of course personal satisfaction as well. Although, if there's a chance you're a procrastinator it may still be faster to wait for DMR to do the installation. I have seen several DYI'ers take longer to finish their installation than if they would have waited for DMR to install, so keep that in mind. I hate to see that happen. I want this to work out for you and to see you succeed at this.

As you may have found out already any Gutter Contractor worth a darn is going to be booked out a ways. Especially in the Fall, so you many not feel you can wait for DMR to fit your project in. If they're not booked up that's highly suspect of their quality and reputation. There may be scary reasons they are able to jump right on it for you, and you'll find the need to replace the crappy work they did after the first heavy rain fall. Other than the learning curve your best advantage is you'll know it was installed well if you do-it-yourself. For some reason you cannot seem to pay most Contractors enough to care about quality over profit, which is why I got into this line of work myself; knowing the right material will be used and installed well.

If your gutters are not rusted out or falling off just replacing your downspouts alone will benefit you substantially with improved functionality to most any house. Especially from those dysfunctional plain square DSP (downspout pipes) found on most houses built within the last 4 decades. New aluminum DSP parts would run you as little as $28 for a 1 story application, and simple enough to do. Perhaps even easier than assembling a toy Lincoln Log Cabin. If you would like the advantage of 3X larger No-clog outlet option a DSP assembly kit runs just $80 each for larger outlet conversion with a Leaf-catcher (shown here to the right). This is including all the brackets, rivets, and stainless steel screws needed.

Why not just buy parts from a hardware Store?
I could not legally install any of the parts they sell, because they are substandard parts. You need to realize hardware stores do not sell gutter parts that are up to minimum building code standards, which will fail in short order. Also, they cost too much, and harder to install. Most DYI'ers would buy those substandard parts, because they don't know any better or thought this was their only option. You cannot get any of the parts we sell at your local hardware store. Plastic gutter parts cost nearly as much as our aluminum gutters installed, are harder to install, limited options, you cannot lean a ladder against them, and they don't last as well, so that's a horrible option. Plastic gutters are just a waste of your time and money.

Even if you are a licensed Contractor you would not be able to get many of the parts listed here from the local wholesale warehouse that sells to only Licensed Contractors. The parts I sell are better than most local Gutter Contractors use. The part I supply you with are the same professional rust free parts I use. I've had to research alternative sources for these better parts, because of the lack of demand for these better parts by other local Gutter Contractors. I have to order these gutter parts from 9 different suppliers in 5 different States across the Nation.

There is a substantial difference in how strong these parts are, how well they work, and how long they will last. The continuous lengths of gutter I form are also better that you'll find from other Gutter Contractors with the safety hem my machine forms on the back wall of the gutter. It is also one of the few gutter machines to have been kept out of the weather since it was new. That detail is more important than you would imagine.

Are there any other Gutter Contractors offering this sort of service?
As far as we know there are no other Gutter Contractors offering this type of service to the DIY'ers at any price in this area. Perhaps within the Nation. They seem to feel it's not worth their time, so why bother, and they're not willing to share precious install instructions with you, or a list of recommended tool, as I have done here (shown below on this web page).

As you'll see I've been quite generous with information here. If you're real nice I'll even offer you a wealth of my 24 years experience to suggest improvements to the gutter system you have now after reviewing some digital photos you send me.

Can you measure my house and process the gutters for me?
You could hire me to bring my ladders out and measure your house roof-lines. Although, if you cannot get those measurements yourself perhaps you should not be tackling such a project as this. If I were to process the gutters for you it would take me too much time, so I would not be able to offer this swift service. You would only save a few hundred $ from having DMR install them, loosing out on our full warranty. You would also be responsible for any damaged parts in the process, so there's no point to not hiring me to do the installation for you at that point. So, prepping the gutters is not a service I offer to local Clients whom are willing to install these gutters.

I have prepped gutters for several out of State Clients, since I am not licensed to work outside Oregon, for an added cost of course. Only since outside Oregon installation is not an option for those Clients. Although, this speedy service is no longer an option for that level of processing effort. This service is because they are not likely to find a Gutter Contactor willing to do what DMR does at any price. Swift turn-around service would not apply, and freight can be quite expensive for long crates; such as this would require. I have had California Clients fly up here, rent a truck, and drive those parts back home. I even delivered copper gutter parts clear over to Canton Ohio in 2013 at the cost of $4k, which was a good deal less than the cost of a crate and truck freight would have cost them.

Here is a testimony from a client who traveled to us from San Jose to get a set of our copper gutter lengths and several other custom parts to suit his needs.

From: Peter Troop <ptroop@sbcglobal.n*t>
Date: Thu, 09 Jun 2011
Subject: Overdue thank you - San Jose job

Your help with my gutter issues last fall was spectacular. Your materials, combined with the skills of my installer, have given an excellent result. The trays, funnels, reducers, leaf catchers and screen system look beautiful and work. For the first time in this home I have an actual gutter system that reliably does what it needs to do.

I know you would like photos – and I’ve been waiting to get them before sending this email. But I don’t have them yet – but wanted to let you know how pleased I am. I will send them eventually.

I hope this finds you well...

Can you show us how to process the gutters?
Sure, you could sign up for our gutter installation training course, but that runs $500 a day and could take any where from a single day to a month to complete, depending on your aptitude and complexity of your gutter job. Since it obviously would take us less time and cost less to process those parts and install them for you this option has proven to not be very popular, unless you want to go into this line of work. You can follow this link to learn more about our training program:


Installation Instructions:
Here is the most current instruction w/list of recommended tools. Just click on the images below for a docx file you can read and print out that was last updated 7/13.

Gutter Installation InstructionsLeaf-catcher Installation instructions

To read more about the design and function details of our Leaf-catchers see:

Free phone support if we cannot understand your instructions?

I am willing to answer some minor questions, but if it's going to be more involved than just a short 5 minute call we will need to arrange a consultation fee first. This is why I suggest you read over the instructions before placing your order, so you have a much better feel for being able to do this. I don't think it's very complicated with my 2 decades of experience of course. I'm able to accomplish most new projects w/o any instruction, which is how I started out in this business, given I was tested in School to have a 99% mechanical comprehension, which it well above average. I could not possibly know how difficult you might find this sort of work.

As stated above it would probably take us less time to process those parts and install them for you then it would take to explain all this to you, so consider this before placing an order for DIY parts.

For whom is this service available?

This is for the Novice to experienced Contractor who may not want to invest in their own gutter machine and find a place to store it. Just believing you can do this is the hardest hurdle you'll probably face. I applaud those who have the gumption to try, which is why I offer this service. Take the time to read over the instructions I have provided here and imagine the possibilities.

These prices are for those within our local Portland, Oregon Metro area for a delivery of these long gutter lengths or pick up (if they are not too long to handle). I have had some out of State clients, but shipping long lengths of gutters can be a bit more costly in order to build sturdy wood crates and truck freight.

If you are not local to NW Oregon, go to our Custom Parts Shipping web page for our special gutter accessories that I ship out FedEx Ground for the prices listed there. I seem to sell to Homeowners more than licensed Contractors ten fold, so don't be shy to ask for my assistance and advice regarding your order.

When can you deliver?
Even if I am scheduled months out to do installations I can usually still give you a good deal on gutter run-outs w/all the professional parts needed, with the added convenience of prompt delivery Usually within a week from getting your payment. Just like most any lumber yard I require full payment before delivery of your order.

For combined gutter runs above 150' the delivery fee is waived, but for smaller parts deliveries within our local Portland, Oregon Metro area it runs $75 an hour round trip.

How do I arrange this?
The CCB does require all Licensed Contractors to provide free bids within a reasonable area, but a gutter parts order does not fall within that requirement. Just as with any delivery from a lumber yard, I do not make a free advanced trip out to your job site to evaluate your needs for gutter parts for you. Charging you a fee I can  drive over and scale my ladders to get the exact measurements and downspout placements you would need, but if you are able to do the installation you should be able to do this for yourself without much difficulty.Gutter Parts Order-form Chart

I have gone out of my way to provide you with this convenient chart to help you work up an order. You can see a larger copy of our gutter chart by just clicking on the image to the right for printing it out.  Take measurements, fill it out using the prices below, and send it in with your payment.  Feel free to e-mail me with a scanned copy for confirmation of your numbers or with any questions you may have. I will respond within 24 hours.  I can mail you a hard copy if you are not able to print out this chart. Call me if it is very urgent.  I may need to call you back, as I will most likely be at a job site, perhaps up on a ladder.

Remember that I can make them a little longer to make sure they will fit just right. If you are not sure about your measurements they can be trimmed back to fit, but it will be very frustrating if they are too short, and may not be usable.

To clarify your options there are a few different ways to do this and cost options. 

(a) If you have a way to come here to get the parts and safely transport them you would save the cost of delivered parts. Be sure to mention this detail when placing your order. I have been transporting hundreds of long continuous gutter lengths on the freeway and City streets for 2 decades w/o incident, so it can be done, but there's no guarantees. My record is 61' in one piece, but I would not recommend you try to do this with more than 35' w/o experience.

(b) I can deliver continuous gutter lengths safely to your job site for $75 an hour round trip. If the gutters you need are all fairly short (less than 45' long) that will expedite matters. I can run them out here and just put them on the rubber pads over my 32' ladder (as seen in the background photo). There is an extra $150 service fee to bring out the gutter machine trailer to your job site for longer lengths. To do this I will need a high amp 120 volt plug-in to run the gutter machine and 100' of space for my rig, trailer, plus the length of the longest gutter to run them out.

(c) I can process and seal these gutters for you, so they are ready to hang. Those processed parts would cost more of course. You'd be subject to our schedule found on our Latest News web page, so there is that delay as well. I would need exact measurements, or need to drive out to the job site to get those measurements for you for a fee. The cost savings of not having us do the installation is only $0.75 ln', you'll risk damage to the parts after delivery, and you would not have our installation warranty, so this has proven not to be a popular option for the Do-it-yourselfer. You would be better off having us install them for you.

I hope this clarifies this process for you. I aim to please and be as versatile as possible to fit your needs. Let me know what options suit your needs best.

Minimum charge?
I will do small jobs, but I need to have a $200 minimum for these kits.  If you are able to pick up the parts here at our shop I may waive the minimum charge.  Be sure to e-mail and call first to be sure we have the parts you need in stock and to arrange a time for us to be here for the pick-up.



Gutters, & Downspout Parts Prices
(does not include preparation, delivery, installation, or freight)

Parts Description

Gutter Run-outs w/a Monster Hidden Hanger for every 2' of gutter w/a pair of stainless steel screws for each hanger $5 Ln' for 0.027" thick w/0.063" hangers
0.032" gutter in limited colors for 50 cents more
$24 Ln'
Exclusive 20oz copper
w/32oz hangers
2"x3" Downspouts 10' or cut to lengths you need (rivets, pipe-cleats, & SS screws sold separately below) $4 Ln'
or per elbow
0.019 thick
$20 Ln'
16oz copper
or per elbow
2x Larger 3" x 4" Downspouts come in 10' sections, but can be cut to just the lengths you need. $5 Ln'
or per elbow
$24 Ln'
16oz copper
or per elbow



Other Gutter Parts Accessories Prices

Note: listed prices below include all the needed hardware, like rivets and stainless steel screws to perform the work, but not delivery, freight, or installation.

I don't have a fancy shopping cart system here, so simply e-mail with what you want.
There's a PayPal link on my Contact Page if credit card payment is perferred.

Installation instruction are below, and click here for our order and contact info

Copper & aluminum no-clip hidden hangers 1.5" wide Monster Hidden Hangers
Sold separately for rehanging any 5" gutter. Each hanger comes w/a pair of #12 stainless steel screws in either 1", 1.5", or 2" length. I tend to use the longer screws for rafter tail attachments.

$200 for box of 100 in 0.063 Aluminum
$600 for box of 100 in 32oz Copper
Can be packed as needed

48oz copper no-clip hidden hanger

Standard k-5 end-capStandard Left or Right End-caps

$4 each for Aluminum part

$12 each for Copper

Or DMR exclusive Mitered End-cap option:

$6 each for Aluminum mitered end-cap piece
$14 each for Copper mitered end-cap piece

DMR exclusive Mitered Edn-cap kit

The right way to make an outletYou do not need an outlet piece. In my gutter work I have not used an outlet piece for about 20 years now, since I have a better way of processing outlets in the floor of a gutter that is over 25% larger than an outlet piece would allow for. I can get them for you in 2X3, 3X4, 2" round, 3" round, and 4" round size, but I do not recommend any of them. The main reason is how you would loose about a fourth of the flow volume and cause more obstructions to form in short order.

This is a detail that is one of the most important advantages of my gutter work over most other contractors. I have always attach the first elbow before I had installed the gutter, so it cannot become dislocated from the gutter. Which I have seen happen all too often with other standard gutter installations.

I have written about this in my installation instructions, but here it is again:

It is very simple to just trace the elbow on the floor of the gutter where the outlet needs to be. Then use a 1" hole saw to cut a small hole in the center of that larking on the floor of the gutter, so you can get tin snips in there to cut out to the 4 corners of the outlet (I actually make 8 cuts). Then bend the floor flanges down into the elbow. Caulk the inside rim of the elbow and fit it up under the gutter to rivet it through those flanges bent down into that elbow.

It is also a good procedure to use the downspout crimper to crimp the back wall of the gutter on each side of the outlet to shrink the back wall of the gutter, which makes the gutter dip slightly at the outlet. This is so the gutter will drain into the outlet from both sides of that gutter outlet, once mounted correctly.
Pre-fab Corners in 90 degree for Inside or Outside
 Aluminum (0.019): $35 each
 Copper (12oz): $80 each
This is the more common outside corner shown here in a white painted aluminum. They do not sell these for a 45 degree angle corner piece. This is what amature installers would use to make this process easier to do.

Outside 90 degree corner Miter-box in aluminumOutside 90 degree corner Miter-box in aluminum

These come in a limited color selection of brown or white, which can be painted to match. These are better than strip miters, but not something I would use. They look nice, but are very fragile being formed with a very thin sheet metal. I have commonly seen these seams break apart and leak.I had to use them on one gutter job and found they take longer to do and require about 3X more rivets and caulk.

Outside 90 degree corner Miter-box in copper

I can make sturdier custom corners for you at most any angle you need in a thicker metal than these, but they will not look as pretty. A custom corner piece runs $80 each in aluminum and $100 made in the 20oz copper we use. I only have a K-5 gutter machine, so I cannot make corners for the larger K-6 style gutters.

Black powder baked steel leaf screensGutter Screens
This is the best gutter cover screen I have found to date at any price point. Yet, they are at a much more reasonable cost, compared to most other gutter covers (which I have found to have a high failure rate). These are sturdy screens that will not cave into the gutter and easy to install without the need for fasteners in most cases. They are made 5"x 4' long w/a very good black powder-bake finish over steel. It is shaped with a curl under attachment. In rare cases they may need a pair of screws for each to secure when there is not enough shingle overhang.

$200 per box

(25 piece/100' per box, but can be packed to order)

Another important advantage of this particular screen is how you can easily see down into the gutter in order to see if there is too much debris build up creating a blockage. Without even removing the screen you can hose out the gutter, so long as you have a strainer in the downspout below, like we make called a Leaf-catcher  (as seen here below). It is a big advantage if you do not have to scoop out that horribly stinky and filthy debris that has been decomposing in your gutters for so long.

Note: This company makes a Small Hole version, but I found it had too high of a failure rate, so I no longer offer that style. I would love to have access to a screen with even larger holes than this for better overall functionality, but steer clear of any gutter cover with smaller holes.

These screens are easy to put in place. You just need to slide them up under the edge of your shingles and pulled back down to the outer rim of the gutter to lock into place. I use a small screw driver to stick through the holes of the screen to pull it back down into place. They are notched at one end to show the recommended overlap.

Corners: There are no corner pieces to order for these screens. I just trim them at a 45 degree angle in the corners as needed. Or you can just run one side out to the end of the gutter and bend the side over to fit, and continue on the other side. You could even leave the outside corners open, since there is no debris there to slide off the roof at those points. This would also help to access these corners with commonly trap debris.

As for inside corners; there is no type of screen that can be used that will not be covered with debris, causing that river of water to pour out past the gutters, so I have found any inside corner has to be left open, uncovered. Some of this screen can be used up on the roof  to trap that debris up in the valley to keep it from clogging up the gutter, but you then need to make sure those valleys get cleared out regularly, or they could back up water under the shingles and cause water damage. This is just part of the unavoidable maintenance of any house with a valley, which is a design flaw many houses have.
A 3X4 pipe cleat used for a 2X3 downspout mountLarge Downspout Pipe Cleats
5 3/4" wide 1 3/8" tall. Made with 0.063" metal. They were designed for mounting 3X4 downspout, but also works well with 2X3 downspout. Comes with
6 rivets and a pair of #12 stainless steel screws for each bracket. The Copper pipe cleats come with 6 SS screws per as a theft deterrent. They can be bent to fit a round downspout, so specify if that is how they will be used.

$3 each set in 0.063 Aluminum
$14 each set in 48oz Copper

A 3X4 pipe cleat used for a 2X3 downspout mount3X4 pipe cleat on a 3" round downspout

a downspout Leaf-catcher strainerLeaf-catchers
I am so confident you will love these downspout strainers I make, so they come with a 2 year satisfaction guarantee, even if they are damaged and not resellable. These are the #1 reason DMR Gutters is hired to replace gutters. These kits include all the attachment hardware needed to remount your 1 story DS pipe in the same manner: including 3 large pipe cleats, 6 SS screws (18 w/copper), and 28 rivet.

Please specify your DS size:
(a) standard 2X3 DS
(b) a wider 3X4 above reduced to 2x3 below
(c) larger 3X4 DS top & bottom
(d) 3" round DS
(e) 4" round DS

Option 'b' can be used with 2X3 DS for a larger strainer basket if you want, or w/3X4 DS reduced to make it easier to fit below into a standard 3" storm drain pipe. To read more about the design & function details of our Leaf-catchers see:

Painted Aluminum:
w/a 6X6 weave stainless steel screen strainer basket
See color chart for options.

Standard 2X3 DS - $40 ea.
Larger 3X4 DS - $45 ea.

20oz Copper:

Standard 3.5" - $70 ea.
Larger 4.5" - $80 ea.

Larger No-clog outlet reducer to a 2X3 downspoutDownspout Reducer
8 sided reducer designed for corrugated 3"x 4" to 2"x 3" downspouts
. We have 8 different templates, so please be specific with your order:
(a) common 'A' style (as shown)
(b) 'B' style - seam on narrow sides
(c) No eave gutter outlet/reducer
(d) End of gutter outlet/reducer

In each 4 styles listed above specify 12" or 15" long versions

Aluminum Reducer:
12"L - $10 or 15"L - $12

20oz Copper Reducer:
12"L - $30 or 15"L - $35 each

Gutter Expansion Joint Kit, or Super-Outlet Tray:
This scupper tray shown is made for a K-5 gutter 3.25" X 10" wide top with the bottom sealed to a larger 3x4 elbow. These can be used with a fascia gutter, but it would stick out 1/2" from the floor of that narrower gutter. I can also make these for a wider K-6 gutter floor.

Note: These are very important for any long gutter lengths over 40', as shown here in this image of a cut-away attachment before the other gutter length is added. This is if you have a downspout somewhat near the middle of the gutter. Since you cannot connect a single elbow to 2 separate gutters, which have to move, this tray is sealed to the elbow and the ends of the gutter can dump into it. This is also used as a Super-outlet, so the whole floor of the gutter can be cut open 9" wide.
An oulet expansion joint tray piece

Aluminum Super-Outlet:
K-5 -
$50 each
K-6 - $55 each

20oz Copper Super-Outlet:
K-5 - $80 each
K-6 - $90 each


End-cap Sealed Expansion Joint Kit:
This is a cover for on top, so it does not dribble between the gutter ends and a wider cover for underneath side to help hide the split gutter sections. I rebend the floor of a 12" wide gutter to fit over the end-caps and snap over the upper rim. Since I do not have a K-6 gutter machine I cannot offer this in the larger size, but I can still make a top end-cap cover piece for you.

K-5 style 2 Piece Aluminum Expansion Joint Cover Kit:
$20 each

K-5 style 2 Piece K-5 Copper Expansion Joint Cover Kit:
$35 each

Endcap expansion joint cover kitEndcap expansion joint cover kit

FunnelStandard Funnel
This is used to join a pair of downspout pipes down into a single DS. This is 15" tall x 6.5" wide at the top and has 8 bends to fit weith the rounded corner DS pipes. This kit includes rivets, a pipe cleat, and 3 SS screws or more. Please specify size and color, so this is a good match for what you need.

Aluminum Funnel (as shown)
for 2x3 DS - $15 each

for 3x4 DS - $18 each

20oz Copper Funnel
for 2x3 DS - $40 each

for 3x4 DS - $50 each

Scupper/Funnel5 Facet Scupper/Funnel
Commonly for flat roof outlets, or a decorative funnel to combine 2 downspouts into 1 downspout (as shown above). This has a rim bent over the top edge for added strength. Includes rivets, a pipe cleat, and SS mounting screws. Please specify color for aluminum.

Measurements for 2X3 DSP:
8.5" wide, 5.5" deep, 13" tall

Measurements for 3X4 DSP:
12" wide, 8" deep, 12" tall

Aluminum Scupper
for 2x3 DSP - $20 each (as shown)
for 3x4 DSP - $30 each

20oz Copper Scupper
for 2x3 DSP - $80 each
for 3x4 DSP -
$100 each

Rain-cups Outlet
Rain-cups Outlet
Rain-cups are used in leu of a regular downspout to a catcher basin. This outlet piece helps to effectively funnel the rain water into the cups allowing for a larger outlet opening. Includes rivets, 1/4" SS hook, and 4 ga copper wire for rain-cup attachment. Comes in 30 pre-painted colors for aluminum

Aluminum Rain-cups Outlet (as shown)
$30 each

20oz Copper Rain-cups Outlet
$50 each

Go here for more detailed installation instructions and photos: http://dmr-gutters.com/rco.htm

Rain-cups Outlet

Downspout Roof Tray

Downspout roof trays

Downspout roof trayI have been using these on our gutter jobs for over 25 years now w/o negative reports. These are usually formed from a 6" wide gutter coil stock. I bend a 3/4" rise w/safety hem on both sides to contain the rain water flow from an upper downspout mounted over roofing to deliver it to a lower gutter w/o touching the roof shingles. This looks better than a downspout mounted over the shingles, while eliminating the mildew stains and excess wear of those shingles. As well as minimizing the pour off the side of the roof near by.

These can be simply attached with a stainless steel screws with a sealing washer at the top, which we supply you. I also have designed a clever hidden roof bracket. These are attached below with a matching metal straps fastened to the roof with stainless steel screws with a sealing washer, which are also supplied. The strap is then screwed onto the sides of the tray to hold it in place and this hides the penetrating screw from the elements.

Downspout roof trayThe end is to be trimmed and curled down in a soft curve to wick the water down into the lower gutter. If you are covering the lower gutter with a screen it will need to be cut open where this tray is mounted, or that debris will clog the screen in short order and shoot water out over the screen. These can be made to the length you need in a variety of colors to match your roof.

These can be made in custom sizes to suit your needs as well. Such as: floor widths, gaduating tapered widths, higher sides, and even tapered side height.

Note: Shipping cost would be a lot more for trays longer than 6' long, since they would have to go truck freight. That could make these cost over 10X more.

Aluminum Roof Tray:
$4 ln' for 3" wide floor + $5 for each roof bracket w/SS screws
$5 ln' for 4.5" wide floor + $6 for each roof bracket w/SS screws

20oz Copper Roof Tray:
$15 ln' for 3" wide floor + $12 for each roof bracket w/SS screws
$20 ln' for 4.5" wide floor + $18 for each roof bracket w/SS screws

Proseal 34 caulkPRO-SEAL 34 Caulk
I know this seems way too expensive, which it is. This is the most expensive caulk I have found, which I have now been using on every gutter job since before 2000 without a failure reported. I have even replaced damage gutters after a decade in service and was amazed how well it still held and sealed the gutter corners. As long as propper expansion joints were implimented, which is terribly rare to see.

This unique caulk is rated at 350% expansion. Far more than any other caulks on the market. It can be applied in wet weather as well. As long as the metal is clean, but as with any caulk do NOT use soapy water to keep it from sticking to your fingers, because when you get even a tiny bit of that soap on the metal it will then not stick to that either. Cleans off with mineral spirtis or stronger solvents.

$20 each 10.5oz tube
Painted aluminum (may not be available in all colors)
$10 per 100

Copper w/solid brass mandrels
$20 per 100
Color match chartMatching touch-up Spray Paint
$12 per shaker can

A set of color chips:
for available pre-painted aluminum

- php


 Copper rian-cupsCopper rian-cups
Copper and Brass Rain-Cups (funnels)
An alternative to a closed downspout, as long as you have a good system to catch this water underneath to channel that water out away from your house foundation. Some designs are no longer available.

Keep in mind how rain-chains have never worked, as it is impossible to effectively funnel that rainwater onto the chain, and they tend to have a much wider splatter pattern of about 9 square feet. I recommend using the copper funnels I call rain-cups.

It is best to remove the end-cap and bend the floor of the gutter down to direct the water into the top of the rain-cups. This helps prevent debris from forming a blockage inside the gutter. I use a 1/4" stainless steel eye hook or place a hidden hanger on the end  for attachment. They also come in a 3 funnels per foot without the chain link between them.

These shown below comes in sets of 2 ornamental funnels per foot that link together with a hollow tubular loop chains, which are not very strong, so I replace them with solid 4ga copper wire to handle heavy ice cycles.

Bluebell or Crocus
$260 - 10' strand all funnels (no loops as seen above)

Buttercup, Fish, Tulip, or Umbrella
$350 - 10' strand all funnels
(no loops as seen above)

Better Rust Free Non-ferrous Metal Roof Flashing Parts
Note: due to supply shortages I may not be able to get 20oz copper at this time.
Feel free to call you local Roofing Supplier to see if you can quickly get aluminum or copper flashing at any price; w/o having to wait several weeks or even months. This is because they are under strict contract by the Roofing manufaturers to never stock rust-free flashing, like aluminum.

The standard copper used for flashing and gutters is a thinner 16oz copper. Although, we use a thicker 20oz copper instead, which is the same thickness as the 0.027 aluminum used for most gutters and about 50% stronger. The cost for this 20oz copper cut and bent into custom flashing pieces is as low as just $12 sq'.

The 0.027" thickness aluminum flashing runs $2.50 sq'. A thicker 0.032" aluminum sheet metal can be acquired in some limited common colors for $3 sq' upon request. That is 20% more for a 50% added strength, which is quite a bargain for this added value.

The custom design profiles we offer are also better than standard roof flashing. This flashing can be made up to 12' long, or cut down to order. In aluminum you have the choice of our 40 different colors to suit your needs better than the Roofing Suppliers would have to offer. That is if they could offer you aluminum flashing.  These can be custom made to order to your specific needs in lengths or widths, so little if any material is wasted, provided we have detailed measurements of your project to work from.  Also, the aluminum cut-off scrap value is 10X more $ than steel scrap. We will offer free delivery to local job sites for orders over 150 sq' in copper, or 300 sq' of aluminum.

These prices listed below are w/o a wood crate & freight, so if you're not local to the Portland, Oregon area that cost will need to be added to these charges. If you can get it locally it should be cheaper than paying for freight, yet I may still be less than what they are charging, since they will do their best to discourage the use of any rust-free flashing to avoid warranty issues of the shingles they sell, so they will overprice any rust-free flashing orders. Simply speaking: it's because they need the flashing to fail well before the roofing shingles, so they will suffer no liability.

To be clear I am not insured to install these roofing parts, so you would need to be able to install them yourself, or hire a Roofing Contractor to use these parts when roofing your home. Although, you need to verify they are actually insured to do roofing work, since it is 5X more cost than any other type of construction work and there is a high chance they are not insured to do this sort of work, and you would not be covered if they mess up.

I have an Advice page about roofing you should read over before you've signed a contract with a Roofer: http://dmr-gutters.com/rf/roofs.htm

Drip Edge Flashing
This type of flashing is used along the bottom edge of the roof to seal the roofing to the gutter and protect the plywood roof deck. Priced per 12' stick (not just 10'). These can easily be custom formed to your roof angle, lengths, or other unique specifications to suit your needs better, so don't be shy to ask. I can even vary the drop length from side to side. It can also be made with a safety-hem along the bottom edge for added strength, safer handling, and helps when cleaning out the gutter, but would add to the cost for the additional metal. Please specify when ordering.
See above for freight details if you are not local.

Drip Edge Metall FlashingCost examples for 0.027 Aluminum:
1X3 from 4" wide stock - $12 (the standard, as shown)
1.5X3.5 from 5" wide stock - $15
2X4 from 6" wide stock - $1
2X4.5 w/safety hem from 7.5" wide stock - $22.50

20oz Copper:
1X3 from 4" wide stock - $80
1.5X3.5 from 5" wide stock - $100
2X4 from 6" wide stock - $120

T-Metal Rake Edge Flashing
This is used to protect the outer diagonal edges of your roof. Not to be used as drip-edge flashing. Other T metal flashing is made from a small 4" wide strip, so this is better. These can also have an outward safety-hem added for added strength, straightness, and channel the rain water down to the gutter, which means no more drips and stained rake edge boards. Please specify when ordering. Priced in 12' long sticks, but can be packed to order.
 See above for freight details.

Rake Edge T MetalCost examples for 0.027 Aluminum:
4" wide stock - $12 (standard, but too small)
6" wide stock - $18
7.5" wide stock - $

20oz Copper:
6" wide stock - $120
7.5" wide stock - $150
(as shown)

Fascia & Rake Edge Metal Covers
This is used to better protect the outer horizontal and diagonal edges of your roof from the elements, than just house paint. It is actually cheaper and better to cover this area with a painted aluminum cover, than to hire a Painter to prep and paint these boards, and will be a longer lasting solution with a smoother appearance. Fascia & Rake Edge MetalThese metal covers are just slid up under the edge flashing and cup under the board and tack into place, which means no more stained and warped roof edge boards. Please specify board size when ordering. Priced in 12' long sticks, but can be packed to order.
 See above for freight details.

Cost examples for 0.027 Aluminum:
4" wide stock - $12
6" wide stock - $18
7.5" wide stock -$22.50
10" wide stock - $30 (as shown)

12" wide stoc
k - $36

20oz Copper:
6" wide stock - $120
7.5" wide stock - $150
10" wide stock - $120

12" wide stock - $240

Horizontal Wall Flashing
This style of flashing is for sealing the horizontal lines of your roof that have a protrusion. Such as a dormer, wall, or chimney. They are priced per 12' stick, but can be cut or formed to size as needed with double or tripple bends and a safety-hems for added strength, straightness, and hiding the sharp exposed edges. Please specify when ordering.
See above for freight details.

Horizontal wall roof flashingCost examples for 0.027 Aluminum:
8" wide stock: 3X5 - $24 (standard)
10" wide stock: 4X6 - $30
12" wide stock: 5X7 - $36

20oz Copper:
8" wide stock: 3X5 - $160
10" wide stock: 4X6 - $200
12" wide stock: 5X7 - $240

Step Flashing
These pieces of flashing are for sealing the diagonal lines of your roof that have a protrusion. Such as a dormer, wall, or chimney. You will need 1 piece for each row of shingles. They are priced per 25 pack, but can be packed to order
. This pair of 45 degree bends shown is an improved design, but can also be made in the traditional single 90 degree bend. The sharp corners are rounded off for better handling. Please specify when ordering. See above for freight details.

Step-Flashing Metall0.027 Aluminum per 25 piece pack:
6" X 8" long stock - $36
8" X 8" long stock - $

8" X 12" long stock - $70

20oz Copper per 25 piece pack: 
6" X 8" long stock - $200 (as shown)
8" X 8" long stock - $260

8" X 12"  long stock - $390

W-Valley Flashing
This type of flashing is to seal a roof transition; called the valley of your roof. These can be made for tile roofs with reverse bends along the outer edges. Priced per standard 10' stick, but can be cut to the size as needed. These are limited to just raw unpainted metal sheets, which is an advantage, so you do not have to see the paint flaking off a couple decades later.

The pipe shown here is a simple tool I made to help roll the bottom edges of the valley metal to keep the rain water from shooting out over the gutter. See above for freight details.

W Valley Metal0.032 Aluminum (unpainted):
16" wide stock - $50 per 10 ln'
24" wide stock - $75 per 10 ln'

20oz Copper:
18" wide stock - $300 per 10 ln'
24" wide stock - $400
per 10 ln'

Hip & Ridge Cap w/Vent Kit
Copper ridge caps help reduce moss growth below, and will seal the roof edge much better than any other type of roofing products on the market. Theses can be ordered with or w/o the vent kits, or can be mounted directly on the shingles. These can be formed in several differnt configurations, but I do not have the tooling to form curved radius bends. We supply all the stainless steel screws w/rubber washers needed for attachment.

If you have copper gutters this seems to be your only option for moss control, since powder treatments will disolve copper. If you do not have much of a moss problem in your area these sort of metal ridge caps can be made with a painted aluminum in stead of copper for a lot less. Made just to seal the roof better and also provide a better ridge vent system. Priced below per linear foot plus freight charges if needed.  See above for freight details.

Vented copper ridge caps W Valley Metal

Cedar Wood Frame w/SS Screen Vent Mounting System:
Pre-cut Parts Kit w/SS mounting screws- $14 ln'
Pre-assembled formed to your roof angle ready to mount with SS deck screws included  $20 Ln'

0.032" Aluminum Hip & Ridge Covers w/SS mounting screws:
12" wide stock (up to 12' long) - $3.50 ln' (mostly for hips)
15" wide stock (up to 12' long) - $4.35 ln' (mostly for hips)
18" wide stock (unpainted up to 10') - $5.25 ln'
24" wide stock (unpainted up to 10') - $7 ln'
$20 each for custom end-caps

20oz Copper Covers w/SS mounting screws:
12" wide stock (up to 12') - $20 ln' (mostly for hips)
18" wide stock (up to 10') -
$30 ln'
24" wide stock (up to 10') - $40 ln' (as shown)
Custom End-caps - $40 each


From: Eric Tupper <tupperair42@hotmail.c*m>
Subject: RE: Down-spout Filters
Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2014

Hi David,
I just had to tell you how fantastic your DS Filters work. The install went fantastic on our house and they catch and push out the pine needles very well.

thank you for having such a great solution to our gutter debris. I also had the gutter company who installed the DS filters enlarge all of the openings in the gutters to allow the debris to freely travel to the DS filters.

Thank you again,
Eric Tupper
Here is another letter I received from a client who ordered over 200' of the heavy gauge 20oz copper gutters from me to install himself in Lake Oswego, Oregon. This may give you a better sense of what this is like better than anything I could tell you:

From: "Berglund, Carl A" <carl.berglund@XX.c*m>
Subject: RE: Berglund copper gutters.
Date: Wed, 17 Oct 2007

Thanks David,
I didn't ever find a crimper that could put a dimple for sealing the end caps that's why I am short in that I had to use rivets on every end cap. That sealant is some sticky stuff, worse almost than vaulkum.

<I could have gotten the tools needed for you, since many of them are not found and hardware stores. Although, I suppose that is the better way, since a few extra rivets are a lot cheaper than this hand tool you would not be likely to use again. As to the caulk; I aim to supply the best>

In any event things went pretty smooth, I did find that on my house I could use pipe clamps to rest the gutter on prior to putting in any screws. This in my view made things much much easier.  So depending upon how the fascia is put up, if there is a way to either a. clamp a board up to hold the gutter, or b. just use the end of the clamp it made it possible to get the gutter up, then position it, fine tune it's pitch, etc.. without ever doing a screw - very very handy. Also If I needed a helper it was only to get it up onto the clamps - then I was good to go.

<That is a great idea I had not considered. Aluminum gutters are only 1/3 the weight, and since all I did was aluminum for the first 5 years I never bothered to rig up something like that.>

Tips, I bought a very high quality level (I have numerous but the precision of the bubble for just touching the line wasn't very good. It's the blue ones about 35-40$ for a 2 footer available at Sears home depot, Lowes etc... it's there best one. Really did make a difference and felt confident that the slope would be just enough but not too much.

<That is a good point. I like the Stabila line of levels best.>

Just FYI, I find these gutters to be "noisier" than our old. Not sure why, maybe copper, or 20 oz copper has a louder "ring" to it when water drips into it.

<They are new and whistle clean. When they get a little debris in them they will be as quite as you remember the old ones being>

I can see why you always wear gloves as well as long sleeve shirts, had a couple places where it was obvious my arm touched them while installing, should have worn a long sleeve. Chop saw worked well but really loud, ear plugs recommended with eye protection a must.

<You are right. I should remember to caution people about how loud and shrill that is>

Back to tips, invest in a good set of both short and long right and left tin snips. Additionally a good set of 3 inch sheet metal bender pliers for downspouts.

<Kline or Midwest makes some good hand tools. The ships should always be the 'off-set' type. Not the type you commonly see in hardware stores.>

I found that for the downspout holes to work out best you can not just do a simple X cut but have to cut inward from the 1 inch hole saw area out and in the corners need real care to get them to end up as big a hole as possible yet have it flare into the downspout right - hope that makes sense but showing one that you have done to a DIY would be very helpful.

<I do: http://dmr-gutters.com/cg/Kistler4.htm . It may not show the hole-saw system. I have a standard size hole punch I use, but it shows how I make 8 cuts to maximize the outlet size.>

Pay very close attention to downspouts near corners or against any part of the house that projects out and do as much of the manipulation of the downspout bracket "holder" as possible prior to mounting it on the downspout. (I was able to do some of the bends with a bench clamp with good success and have the bends be more where I wanted them and cleaner this way.)

<Yes, those pipe cleats are made with a very thick 48oz copper sheet metal>

Pay close attention to rivet placement for consistent good looks on exterior. Important - have an onsite consultation with you to aid in planning. You solved some nice issues in ways I would not have thought of in that I was too caught up in how it used to be rather than what was possible to do better.

<I aim to please>

The leaf catchers in my mind are way more important than the screens. I am finding with the gutters flowing properly they are not gathering to any degree the needles and leaf fall like they used to. A good strong deluge and the needles flow with the water and do a very good job of getting filtered out by the leaf catchers while essentially self cleaning the gutters. I would not ever have a house without them. (had them on the old gutters but they were of poor design and in that the gutters didn't always go downhill and the downspouts were small would always clog.)

<Right, the Leaf-catchers I make are my most popular feature for selling new gutter systems>

That's about it. Some of the corners could be prettier but acceptable overall. Haven't done the flashing on Chimneys yet, hope to this weekend, will put a patio umbrella into the chimney hole if raining so I can do it mostly dry. Once we rock the chimney I will be back to you about chimney caps.

<I will look forward to hearing from you when you are ready>

Thanks again, really appreciate everything.

Carl Berglund


I also make custom aluminum and copper sheet metal parts,
inquire for prices, and see our
Photo Pages to see what else I have done

DMR Gutters will also install gutters at your request, refer to our installation price sheet page

Give me a try. Aside from the wait you may encounter, you won’t be disappointed. Guaranteed! I'd like to believe I'm worth the wait, but that's your call.


A Comparison to Our No-clog Gutter System
A lot more than just a check list
(click on the image below to go to that web page)

Above left is an actual aluminum LEAF GUARD gutter cross section profile that I have to show clients the clear difference. The image right shows our more user-friendly hinged copper leaf screen over our copper K-5 gutter for the same cost.




Other Helpful Roofing Information
For some valuable advice with regards to roofing and rain management issues check out our:

(a) Gutter Installation
(b) Gutter Debris Protection Options
(c) Roofing Quality Standards
(d) Chimney Flashing

(e) Moss Control & Treatment

web pages for answers and solutions that could save you thousands of $ and a great deal of anguish.

If you do find this information very helpful, feel free to send us a $ tip for the assistance I so freely have published on the web here for your benefit, like you might tip a waitress.  Heck, send us a gift certificate for a candle lit dinner for two. <LOL>



Below is a photo of our
Better Business Bureau's
NW Business Integrity Award
for the year 1998

1999 Better Business Award

I was also a 1997 finalist for this same award. See our referral web page to see how I managed to be honored with this special award


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