My 10 year warranty may not seem like as much when you hear of some 'life time warranties' offered by a few other companies, but you should also realize any claim like that is highly suspect. In all cases you will find how their fine print absolves that company of any real liability to the issues you will likely need to address down the road. Most No-clog Gutter scam will fail in short order Yet, they will exclaim how 'the gutter did not clog' (which I have heard all too often). The rain water just won't be able to get into those overpriced gutters. In that case you would be just as well off without any gutters on your house. They may be trouble free gutters, but that is a far cry from an effective rain management system. I have come to realize from clients that Leaf Guard's 'life-time warranty' expires after just a decade. Meaning I had offered a 50% longer warranty for less than half the price.

That was a 300% increase in value, even if you do not factor in the better parts I use.

The main problem with construction warranties is how in reality you only have only a 1 year warranty. Let me explain; if you run into a conflict with your Contractor withing that first year, and have eventually exhausted your efforts to resolve it peacefully between the 2 of you, and finally have to resort to file a claim with the CCB to help mediate the situation, if you have not filed that claim within 1 year of completion your grievance is thrown out. Most Contractors know this, so all they have to do is stall you until the statute of limitations had run it's course. Over the last several decades this mindset has detrimentally shaped construction work quality standards to just scrape by within that first year. Once they are past that, they are off scott-free.

I would offer a longer warranty, but at 59-years old (as of 2022) I do not expect I will still be climbing ladders beyond the age of 70, but I do plan to keep this business running as long as possible. I pride myself on being honest and only offering a more realistic guarantee that you could more likely trust. Since this is still 15 times more than the CCB requires of licensed Contractors I trust you should appreciate the added value of how I stand by my work and do my best to address concerns within a week or so. My company may be around beyond this and we would do our best to respond to any reasonable issues, but I would rather not obligate my wife and children to uphold a longer warranty than this.

Cancellations:
If we have contracted to replace your gutters and you had put down the required 1/3 deposit, you are allowed to cancel the job without explanation before work has begun to get a 90% refund of your deposit returned as soon as possible. I am too busy to bother holding our Clients to a contract they do not want. That 10% reservation fee is nonrefundable to cover the jobs I may have lost due to being booked out so far. This 10% reservation fee is just enough to encourage you to work this out with me, but not so much you feel stuck.

If I have already picked up the parts for your project then 50% of that deposit is withheld. This usually would not happen until I have confirmed with you about the color and project details just a week two before starting your job, so that should never be a surprise.

After I have begun the installation; I will do my best to work out any issue you may have to find a workable solution for both of us, but that deposit is not refundable at that point.

Client Satisfaction:
Nearly no company can provide a truly 100% unlimited customer satisfaction, but over the last 2 decades I would say around 95% of our projects have gone smoothly, and those clients appreciate the extra mile I go to without being asked, so this is rarely an issue, but I will cover this issue here anyway. Since I seem to be the only Gutter Contractor to provide a better gutter system at a more reasonable cost than you could get from any other Gutter Contractor; DMR Gutters is by far the best possible value. I've still been known to bend over backwards to resolve disputes, within reason of course. No one can be perfect. I cannot address issues you withhold, so feel free to bring up any issue you have and I will do my best to explain and make sure all your concerns have been dealt with to the best of my ability, within reason. Between 2 well meaning people doing business together there should be nothing we cannot work out. Even without the need for mediation.

Aluminum Sheet Metal Warranty & Durability:
As you know anything is only as good as it's weakest aspect. Logically you can consider how long aluminum ladders have remained in service? I still have aluminum ladders I got when I started, which I still use on a daily basis: over 30 years old now. So, even if you are not familiar with metals and engineering, you can use this as a solid example.

The manufacturer of the new Dupont Teflon surface protector painted on the aluminum I use has a lifetime warranty transferrable to the next owner. When installed well I have seen evidence of aluminum gutters lasting over 60 years, since they will not rust, so it will out last you, but the paint will not likely last half that long. Fortunately the way gutters are mounted they never have to suffer direct Sunlight, as with most automotive surfaces, so cars require a much better paint.

A lot of argument is made about how aluminum is not wise for gutters, since it is a much softer metal and highly prone to denting. What they will not admit is how aluminum gutters are made with a thicker metal than steel gutters to compensate for it being a softer metal. No gutters will hold up to an impact of a large branch smacking it or ladders banging against them, so the notion that aluminum will not hold up as well as steel is an erroneous argument. Although, how they are supported would make a much bigger difference. Besides that, you should realize how dented gutters only account for a very small percentage of my work. Less than 10%, where rusted out gutters accounts for a good 75% of all replacement. So the strength issue should not be you main concern. Aluminum has been used for gutters for well over 70 year now, and I have yet to see evidence of deterioration under normal use here in this area, but poor sloppy installation has been a common issue.

I've heard that aluminum has not held up as well on the Coast with the presence of salt air chemical reaction, but I have not personally seen evidence of this. Although, when I made a litter box for our cats and rabbits out of painted aluminum I saw within a couple years how the concentrated urine managed to eat through the paint and dissolved holes through the aluminum. Yet, I have not seen evidence of this chemical reaction in relation to rain gutter use. I'm not sure what else I could say about aluminum, but I could say a lot of derogatory comments about steel or plastic gutters; from what I have seen and the fact that they account for at least 90% of what I've had to replace over the last 28 years says all you should need to know on this issue.

Copper Sheet Metal:
The copper we use is 99.9% pure copper. When installed well I have personally seen evidence of copper gutters in service for over 100 years. Copper has been used for several millennia and has shown to hold up the best in most any environmen on Earth, unless they cut corners by using a very thin copper to save on cost.  I have evidence of water abrasion wearing holes through thinner 16oz copper within half a century. Given enough time, water can wear down mountains. The soldered seams may separate after several decades. That is one reason why I do not solder copper gutter seams together. I use the most advanced and expensive caulk available with more copper rivets on each corner to seal gutters, along with expansion joints where needed (yet not done by any other Gutter Contractor from what I've seen). The standard thickness for gutters is 16oz copper, which is rated to have a 60 year life span, but we do not offer that thinner option. We use a thicker 20oz copper for an 80 year life span. It is as thick as the aluminum gutters, but being a stiffer metal it is that much stronger. Any thicker and it would not be able to go through a gutter machine.

I use 20oz copper more for better durability than just longevity, since any Client requesting copper is looking for better than standard. The hidden hangers I use are made with a thicker 32 to 48oz copper, which is very hard to bend with your bare hands. Copper has the advantage of very good resale value beyond the extra cost difference with most any house, as it is a solid investment, which will retain a very good scrap value of $2.40 ti $3.50 per pound (2006 to 2022). Copper will not deteriorate from rust and will not even allow mildew to form, so very little cleaning is needed.

Stainless Steel:
My suppliers do not stock this metal for use as gutters, but it would hold up well and be plenty strong. It is just as expensive as copper, but harder to work with and will mildew. It remains bright and shiny, aside from the mildew that will form over the outside surface, so it may look rather odd on most houses. Copper is one metal that is meant to be seen and will not mildew or grow a lot of moss inside, so it is the preferred metal for gutters.

Also, I would not have access to the other parts I would need in stainless steel. Such as the end-caps, outlets, elbows, and downspouts. So stainless steel is not a viable option.

Other Details:

• Realistic Warranty Coverage We Can Trust? As best I know, I offer the highest real warranty in the business here locally.  Note: this is 10 times longer than the Construction Contractors Board (CCB) requires of all Oregon Construction Contractors. I pride myself on providing only honest and realistic claims. I have seen a web site for a Gutter Contractor (not local to us) that claimed a 100 year warranty on their copper gutters.  This is suspect in the fact that this Contractor would have been 6 feet under for at least half a century by then. There are few small businesses that can survive more than a few years, let alone a century from now. I have already specialized in gutter installation for over 30 years under the same Contractors License number 92250. But how many more decades am I likely to be in business and climbing up on ladders you should ask? Well, I am nearly 60 (1/63). I will not make outrageous claims just to sell jobs; like a roofing contractor I knew, who was dying of cancer, yet was offering his clients a 50 year warranty (he died a year later).  I also saw a bid from a competitor (7-05) who boldly stated they have a 25 year warranty, yet in the fine print you could see he was only referring to the manufacturer's warranty on the parts, not his installation, which was only the minimum 1 year, as required. This shows their intent was to deceive the Homeowner, and had no intention of standing by their installation work.

• Detached or Damaged? I use only #12 stainless-steel screws for installation, which are stronger than the screws holding your door hinges on. I can tell each time if the screws had some good solid wood to grip to. If not, it will keep spinning and not cinch down tight.  This installation warranty cover the gutters and downspouts from pulling loose from the house under normal conditions (see exceptions below)
  Note: I would not know for sure if your existing fascia boards were installed well enough to hold the weight of the gutter full of water, debris, Ice cycles, and perhaps a snow load over them.  I would discuss the need for replacement with you if I find a problem, but I do not normally perform special test to see how well the fascia boards are securely attached to the roof rafters.

• Leaks? Yes, my installation warranty does covers leaking corners or end-caps.
  

• Standing Water? My cleaned gutters will have no more than 1/2" deep standing water in clean gutters (usually less), unless the building settles more than that after installation. That's most likely a great deal better than what you had before the replacement, or would get from any other Gutter Contractor; from what I've seen.
  Note: I work especially hard to give all the gutters a slight grade toward the outlet drain in both directions, so they should even rinse themselves out in a heavy downpour.  There should be no standing water at all, but I cannot guaranty that your house will not settle to upset this balance over the next few decades. Although, with the screw attachment, they would be adjustable, unlike the common nail spike attachment most Gutter Contractors still use to this day.

• Transferable Warranty? Yes, our installation warranty is transferable to the next Homeowner, so our gutter replacements can aid the sale of a house. Far more than getting cheaper steel gutters.

I feel that what is more important than a warranty is the type of material used and how it is installed matters.  Rust and poor installation account for at least 90% of gutter replacement, so that is where I place most of my focus. I only work with rust free parts, other than the screen covers. I install over 8X strength on each gutter job we do.

Here's the 'fine print' (although I try to make it legible here). Customer satisfaction is very important to us, but I would be a fool to accommodate every possible situation, so here is some of the common sense limitation that I cannot be responsible for (sorry if this seems condescending).

• Valleys? I have not found a screen at any price that will work at the base of a valley. That concentration of debris will clog the screen or the open gutter in short order and cause a strong waterfall. There is no way to solve this completely. Houses should never be designed with a valley. That is a design flaw that is out of my control. No gutter contractor has a solution for this problem.
• Fascia Board Dislocation: Fascia boards coming down with the gutters rarely happens, but it could. In my travels there's a small chance this will be an issue.  Unless I was contracted to replace the fascia boards, or at least add screws for better support I cannot be responsible if the cause of the gutters coming loose from the house was from the fascia boards becoming dislocated.
  Note: It is rare to see other contractors use screws for installation of fascia boards.  When I install fascia boards, I use long Deck screws. Screws give a good indication if it has a solid grasp in the wood and are very unlikely to ever pull loose. 
• Mother Nature: You will not find a better installation, but I cannot be responsible for damage, scratches, or dents after installation.  Things like tree branches falling, excessive snow and ice loads sliding off the roof (a terrible issue with metal roofs. See my Sheet Metal Roofs & Snow Page for photos and details about this issue and what I try to do to avoid this from happening). Abnormal abuse like vehicles smashing into the gutters, and ladders banged against them are also outside my warranty.
  Note: I do not lean my ladders against gutters, and I go out of my way with each gutter job to install gutters with the best products on the market and 8X building code standards for better installation, but there is only so much that any gutters will resist.  You would do well to buy a $30 ladder stabilizer to loan workers who do not have them on their ladders, so they will rest the ladder on the shingles above the gutters. Then return it when they're done. If they forget and run off with your stabilizer it was only a small loss, but still better than the alternative damage they would have caused.
• Personal Danger or Injury: If you or others accessing your gutters for cleaning or such were to get hurt that cannot be my responsibility. Injury and or damage from falling off the roof, or grabbing the gutter as a last ditch effort to keep from falling to the ground is not covered. I do not guarantee the gutters will hold up to a human hanging off them. Most of my installation have screens, so there would be nothing to grab anyway. If anyone feels they need the gutter as a safety catch, they really need to rethink their safety measures when accessing a roof.
• Screens: These screens are the best, sturdiest product I have found at any price, but they may get deformed over time from unusual snow storms and falling branches, so I cannot warranty that sort of abuse any more than with the gutters themselves.  The screens I use for aluminum and copper gutters are made of an expanded steel sheet metal that has a black powder-bake finish, so I am not responsible for these screens if they begin to rust over time. That would be the manufacturer who would be responsible, but I have not seen a written warranty for these screens. Although, I have been using this brand for over 20 years and they seem to be holding up well so far. If they were to make them in aluminum sheet metal, they would be too light weight, prone to being blown off in the wind, and far too fragile. I can get copper screens, but they are 3X the cost and not half as strong, so they are not a good value. My copper gutter clients have opted for the less expensive steel screens instead.
• Long Term Deterioration of the Metal or Paint Finish: The manufacturer is solely responsible for any deterioration of the sheet metal and paint finishes.  They claim to provide a life time warranty on the aluminum sheet metals and paint finish I use for the pre-painted aluminum gutter and downspouts.  I do not know of a warranty for the touch-up spray paints the wholesale suppliers sell us for use in preparation of gutter parts, but I have seen they do not hold up nearly as well. Note: I am happy to provide you with contact information of the wholesale supplier I use Custom-bilt Metals' phone #(503) 256-3328.
• Theft: I do what I can to make these the most difficult to remove gutter system you will find, but I cannot be held responsible if all or part of your gutter system were to be stolen off your house, assuming I was not the thief of course.

Details:

With my No-clog warranty; you have no responsibility to have someone get up there and check the gutters at all. If the gutters were to become clogged, it would over flow above the downspouts, since that is the low spots. Once notified, it is my responsibility to come out to clear the obstruction. As stated above, I will not be doing regular system checks of your house, so you would need to contact us if there were to become a problem.  This is a small concern, since I have had less than a 5% call back issue.

Leaf-catchers (as shown to the right)
These are not required for Or No-clog warranty, but they are my most popular option, since these are very helpful to keep your rain sewer pipes clear. They are also a lot cheaper than a single Roto-Rooter service call. With my Leaf-catchers, maintenance is simple from the ground level.  All you need to do is clear out the debris in the Leaf-catcher every so often. Note: It does not usually need serviced more than a few times a year, depending on the debris issue near your house.

The Leaf-catcher is placed at hip height, so you don't have to bend over to access it.  With this technology there is much less need to get up to the roof's edge and clear the gutters out.  If you decide that you want to clean out the gutters, you can simply place a piece of plastic or even cardboard over the screen in the Leaf-catcher.  Then rinse out the gutters with the garden hose, spraying right through the screens. This way even the tiny roof sand will flush out onto the ground. Then sweep it up if you choose, and you are done.

Roof Debris Accumulation:
None of this will keep debris from accumulating on your roof. That of course would not be my responsibility. Although, if you do not keep your roof clean, it does not affect my No-clog warranty.

Why are strainers in the gutter bad for gutters?
Any type of strainers that goes up inside the gutters are death to gutters (no joke).  You want the gutters to continue to drain, as they should.  Yes, it is very important to keep your underground drains clear of this debris, but placing the Leaf-catcher strainer in the downspout is much wiser.

The debris simply decomposes, turning to mud. and damn up the water.  This causes severe damage to the foundation through ground erosion, which is the whole reason gutters are now a mandatory building code.  It also will pull the gutters loose of the house from the heavy weight of the water and debris.  If your gutters are steel, it causes them to rust through that much sooner.  You want the gutters to continue to function and drain!

Best value for your $:
Only a few people here in the Northwest do not have a serious debris problem and may not need these No-clog options with their new gutters.  Most of my clients go with the full package. I happily provide my 8X strength rust-free gutters wit or without my No-clog options.  Our basic installation is better than you will find elsewhere, and at a more reasonable cost.  With the stainless-steel screws attachment that I use to hang my gutters will offers over 8 times the support building code requires, better caulk, and other parts.  So even without the No-clog options you have confidence that this will be a job well done and money well spent.  This I can easily prove, and guarantee.

With the No-clog options it is a product that works better than any other I have seen.  And also cost less that all the other options with a similar claims. You can read more specific details about the different No-clog options on my Comparison web page. And even link to their official web sites to hear their side of the story. I am that confident.